Thursday, 25 January 2018

Let's make Roland Mouret 'Sweeper' Top

Hei Girls
Let's make RM Sweeper top, be prepared, I will be updating this entry with pictures explaining step by step this top.
This top do not have zipper but I will advise to installed one, because I found very strange that a top like this do not have a zipper. it must be hard to take it off. The length of the zipper it will depend on how the length of the back ended it up.
RM Sweeper top
RM Sweeper Top Front
RM Sweeper TOP Back

It helped me to draw this top on paper before starting to drape it on the mannequin. Because It was in the process of drawing when I have my eureka moment and I  managed to have an idea of how it was made.
Here everything is all about proportions. This top has two kind of darts, these darts depends on how big the top will be and how it will look on the body.

H= Will represent how long would you like the top to be
L= will represent the width of the top according to your size and specially bust size
Its not perfect rectangular (it shall be) but the main goal is that you get the idea how this is done.

We take one corner of the H side and pin it to the right side of the Mannequin.

Left side of the mannequin

We made the first dart, you decide how wide will be, here is more important the proportions.

The end of the dart will be pin together with the corner of the H side.

We make the second dart and pin it as the first one

we take the rest of the fabric back. Covering a bit  of the whole  back.

 We straight the fabric (right side)

We straight the fabric (left side) of the mannequin.

 The bottom of the top shall be straight up, for making a nice hem
A band of the same fabric shall sew in the top.

 A small dart is made in the band for being able to take it to back.

 A squared-off fabric is cut and place in the back. We placed one of the side together to right side

the top part of the squared-off fabric will be fold making the sides to meet each other.

We cut, so the sides of the top can meet together

Its here in this side where I will advise to sew a open separating zipper. Sew a nice 3 cm hem. and the top is done.

I hope this can help, if not, please just ask. (^.^)

Wednesday, 10 January 2018

My Colour-block Top based on Roland Mouret designs


Colour-block black-white and red is a combination that I do really like, I bought a trouser with those colors but I didn't have a top , so I decided to sew one. For the design I used the top part of Roland Mouret Ellora top and maybe the lower part of Roland Mouret Agonum top.

Roland Mouret Ellora Top

Roland Mouret Agonum Top

All the parts of the top have been cut in black, red and white stretch crepe. The lining is in white and black.

Fig1.- Back of the skirt 

Fig 2.- Front part of the skirt

Fig 3.- Back of the top

Fig 5.- Front of the top

Fig 6.- Facing of the back of the top

Fig 7.- Facing has been sew in the back of the top

Fig 8.- Sewing together the shoulder front and back including lining

Fig 9.- Lining of the front part of the top

Fig 10.- Front part of the top
Fig 11.- Front-Side of the top
Fig 12.- French seam in the lining of the skirt
Fig 13.- Topstitch on the lining of the skirt
Fig 14.- Sewing the skirt to the top including lining.

Fig 15.- Skirt has been sew to the top with lining.
Fig 16.- Wrong side of the top showing lining and facing
Fig 17.- Wrong side showing the front lining

Fig 18.- Top without Zipper
Fig 19.- Darts on the front panels
Well, I decided not to use RM Agonum skirt design, but I did a change in the back side of the top. Fig1.- Shows that the back part of the skirt was black. Now one side is black and the another one is white so I will keep the white/black/red combination from wherever angle you see the top.
Fig 20.- Left side and right side of the top
Fig 21.- Back side of the top (waiting for the zipper to arrive)
Fig 22.- Zipper installed

Next project........