Wednesday, 10 January 2018

My Colour-block Top based on Roland Mouret designs


Colour-block black-white and red is a combination that I do really like, I bought a trouser with those colors but I didn't have a top , so I decided to sew one. For the design I used the top part of Roland Mouret Ellora top and maybe the lower part of Roland Mouret Agonum top.

Roland Mouret Ellora Top

Roland Mouret Agonum Top

All the parts of the top have been cut in black, red and white stretch crepe. The lining is in white and black.

Fig1.- Back of the skirt 

Fig 2.- Front part of the skirt

Fig 3.- Back of the top

Fig 5.- Front of the top

Fig 6.- Facing of the back of the top

Fig 7.- Facing has been sew in the back of the top

Fig 8.- Sewing together the shoulder front and back including lining

Fig 9.- Lining of the front part of the top

Fig 10.- Front part of the top
Fig 11.- Front-Side of the top
Fig 12.- French seam in the lining of the skirt
Fig 13.- Topstitch on the lining of the skirt
Fig 14.- Sewing the skirt to the top including lining.

Fig 15.- Skirt has been sew to the top with lining.
Fig 16.- Wrong side of the top showing lining and facing
Fig 17.- Wrong side showing the front lining

Fig 18.- Top without Zipper
Fig 19.- Darts on the front panels
Well, I decided not to use RM Agonum skirt design, but I did a change in the back side of the top. Fig1.- Shows that the back part of the skirt was black. Now one side is black and the another one is white so I will keep the white/black/red combination from wherever angle you see the top.
Fig 20.- Left side and right side of the top
Fig 21.- Back side of the top (waiting for the zipper to arrive)

Next project........

Friday, 29 December 2017

My Roland Mouret Moon dress version.

Some minutes here and there everyday, I manage to sew. This time I decided to sew Roland Mouret Moon dress. I must say that compare to many famous dresses from Roland Mouret this dress looks like a piece of architecture. Sort of.
As always we need to make the toile.
A knock-off of this dress will not have the features that make this dress what it is: A Star !!!
Pieces of the dress made in stretch cotton buttercup color. The most difficult of this dress was the sleeves.
I keep the principle that  "Everything starts with a squared off piece of fabric that during the draping process is shape". (^.^)

The top part of the dress.

I sew an invisible zipper

The front part of the top is sew (inserted) to the back part that goes around the whole torso. Front  and back are not sew to the sides like in a standard dress.
The front of skirt of this dress is one piece is not like the knock off dress I have seen where they just sew a small triangle made of fabric to the skirt.
I am very happy with the results. This is without doubt a custom made Roland Mouret Moon dress (^.^)
The dress is finished. Pictures of the inside.

Sunday, 24 December 2017

Emilio Pucci High-waisted Pants version.


I am back. Since my baby was born it has been all about him. I am exclusively breastfeeding, but now that he is 3 months, things are getting better. I take every minute I have free for doing what I like: Sewing.

I decided to sew two pants, one in red and the another in black. My pattern is based on Emilio Pucci black and white high-waisted pants.

First the pattern and a toile.



Emilio Pucci pants has a exposed zipper in the back, invisible zipper at the bottom and also pockets .

The material for making this trouser in black:

Stretch Crepe in black
Overlocking thread in black
6mm black zipper 23cm
5 meters of 10 cm grosgrain ribbon in black
2 meters of 2,5 cm grosgrain ribbon in black
Two 15cm invisible zippers in black

If you can find a very thin lightweight cotton fabric in black for making the pockets will be great, if not can we use lining fabric.

Part of the making process:

The pants are sew in the inside leg with the invisible zippers but the sides of the pants will be sew with the 10 cm grosgrain ribbon.
The pockets are made of 3 parts, each part has to be cut 2 times.

Part 1 sew on top of Part 3

Part 2

All the parts of the pockets together

Sewing Part 2 over Part 3+1, except where the pins are shall be an opening for the hands

Here are the whole pockets assembled

I sew this pant not just in black but also in red stretch crepe, I just love the shape of this pants.