Wednesday, 13 April 2016

Making a version of Roland Mouret Eugene Top

Hello

Long time!!! I have been VERY BUSY, believe me.!! Now I am just looking forward to some holidays (^.^)

I decided to show an approach in the making of RM Eugene Top. This Top has been sewn in so many different colors.

For this top you need a fabric that is medium weight and excellent for draping. The best of this Top is that you don't need zipper.

If you are able to get a serge machine, it will be great, if not you can decide how do you want to finish the edges of the top.

Materials:

Fabric medium weight.
Sewing machine
Grosgrain ribbon
Thread

Weltless Technique for finishing the armholes. 

Here some pictures for showing details of RM Eugene Top


Neck

 Right side

Left Side
Back



I will make a toile jersey fabric, maybe not the best fabric to make this top since jersey its quite stretchy.



First, we will cut a rectangle.  Side B will be the length, Lets say from The neck to hip, and L the width how much shall the back be covered up.

I am 85 cm in my breast, so L:  85 + 85/2 = 127,5

Normally From the waist to the hip there is around 20 cm.
The length will be B: 14 cm neck + 44 torso + 20/2 cm = 68 cm


With the help of a dress form, I wrap the whole Torso.
Match both ends of the fabric in the middle of the back and form a pythagore triangle. Sew 2cm on the top and 2cm, 10 cm above the low edges.
With the help of a ribbon I measure the opening of the armhole.
40cm length, divided in 2, 20cm. I will use 20 cm for the first armhole.
In the above picture, the opening is diagonal, the front end of the opening is just a bit higher than the back end of the opening.

 First armhole

We measure from the top part of the neck to the end of the should, approx 17cm. That will be our center point of the armhole. 10 cm to the left and 10 cm to the right for a opening of 20cm


For the second armhole lets mark the middle point, our second armhole will be rounded as you can see very clearly in the Left Side Picture, starting this article.

 Second Armhole
We moved the armhole from the middle point down.
Our second armhole
At the start of the shoulder, 7cm,  we will make 3 pleats.
3 front pleats, in your Right side.
Sew one ribbon in each side of the lower part back. Lets say 15 cm from the side edge and 15cm from the lower edge.

Done
Front
Back
 Left Side
 Right Side







If you have any question, just ask (^.^) I hope you like.


















Sunday, 20 September 2015

My Roland Mouret Elara top version

Hello

This is the original RM Elara Top


And here is my version.









I have used Stretch Cotton in  light lemon color with white facing.








Sunday, 6 September 2015

My Roland Mouret Sitona Arreton skirt version

Hello

I don't know with you, but I used to like mini skirts but it seems my taste has changed lately and then I don't feel comfortable or great using mini skirt, now I am in love with midi skirts and for quite a bit I have wanted a off white midi skirt.

After doing RM Agonum top  I did have some Off white crepe left, so I decided to sew a Midi skirt making a mix of RM Sitona skirt  back side and Arreton Skirt front side. It takes time for me to publish a new sewing project since apart from a full time job I work with draping for making my own patterns and then fitting, plus I have to buy from abroad all the things I need.


RM Sitona (back side) & Arreton skirt (Front Side)
Front and back of my toile. The most problematic part I did have it was with the front side, I love hugging clothes. Something that helped me to make the fitting in the front a bit better was two Things:  The darts must be under at the same distance as my areolas and the point of the dart must end in the most protrude part of my lower abs.

Front of the Skirt

Back of the skirt


Here is the front and back parts of my off-white skirt, They look with very strange from, but that's because I like normally to have a lot of extra seam allowance for making the last fitting.
 Back side of the Skirt

Front side of the Skirt
 Placement of the zipper
 Finished Front side
Finished Back side
Here it's me with my New Off White midi skirt.